While many Riviera resorts gradually slow down, reduce their services and see numerous seasonal businesses close, Chiavari simply carries on with everyday life – all year round, even in the depths of winter.

With a population of around 25,000, Chiavari has been the commercial heart of the Tigullio area for centuries. Even during the days of the Republic of Genoa, it was the most important marketplace in Eastern Liguria, and that commercial vocation has never disappeared. Today, its historic centre, with its beautiful caruggi (the characteristic narrow Ligurian streets) and medieval arcades, is far more than an attractive destination for visitors: it is where thousands of people work, shop, visit offices, professional practices, banks, boutiques and traditional artisan workshops.

Chiavari is a town designed first and foremost for the people who live here, and it has always wanted—and known how—to protect that identity.

Although it is a well-known seaside destination, it has never given in to the temptation of becoming dependent on seasonal tourism. Instead, it has preserved a commercial and service network designed primarily to meet the needs of its residents, who, in reality, are the people who keep the town alive and vibrant throughout the year.

Tourism is, of course, an important part of the local economy, but it has never become the town's sole driving force, as has happened in many other resorts along the Riviera.

This difference becomes particularly evident during the autumn and winter months.

In many Tigullio towns, once the summer season has ended, numerous restaurants, cafés, shops and tourism-related businesses close for weeks or even months, taking advantage of the quieter period to enjoy their holidays. This is perfectly understandable, as these businesses depend largely on summer visitors. The consequence, however, is that anyone staying there out of season often finds it surprisingly difficult to locate an open restaurant, a specialist shop or even services that seemed readily available during the summer months.

Chiavari is quite different.

Here too, some businesses naturally take a few weeks off, usually between November and early December, but they do so in a remarkably balanced way. Since most of their customers are local residents, the town continues to require its full range of services, and business owners themselves tend to stagger their holiday periods throughout the season, ensuring that no particular sector is ever left without adequate provision. As a result, even during the quietest months, finding an excellent restaurant, a pastry shop, a traditional focacceria, a specialist shop or any essential service is rarely a problem.

For those who live in Chiavari, this is perfectly normal. For visitors, however, it often comes as a pleasant surprise. Walking through the caruggi on an ordinary Tuesday morning in November, it is immediately obvious that the town is anything but "asleep". People continue to work, shop, meet in cafés, visit offices and browse the local shops, just as they do throughout the rest of the year.

For many years, Chiavari was also home to the Chiavari Court, and even today it retains one of the highest concentrations of professional practices in Italy relative to its population. Solicitors, and consequently accountants, architects, doctors and many other professionals generate significant economic activity every single day, bringing life, movement and vitality to the town throughout the year.

Naturally, the way people experience Chiavari changes with the seasons. During the summer, life shifts towards the seafront, the beaches and the cafés overlooking the sea. In autumn and winter, however, the town's beating heart returns to the historic centre, where the caruggi, arcades, markets, cafés and shops continue to be enjoyed every day by those who live and work here.

It is precisely this continuity that makes Chiavari such an attractive destination outside the summer season.

Whether you work remotely, wish to spend a few weeks enjoying a milder climate than that of Northern Italy's larger cities, or simply fancy a few peaceful months by the sea without giving up the convenience of a fully functioning town, Chiavari offers something increasingly rare: a genuine Italian town, not a place artificially built around the holiday season.

People once used the expression "to winter by the sea", and perhaps it still has all its original meaning today. Renting a comfortable apartment such as Le Saline, located in a quiet residential area just a few minutes from both the beach and the historic centre, means enjoying an elegant town, rich in services, blessed with a mild climate and an atmosphere that remains welcoming and enjoyable throughout the year.

It is a quality that many people discover almost by chance during their first stay—and one that often becomes one of the main reasons why they choose to return.

Chiavari is an elegant Italian seaside town in Liguria, on the coast of the province of Genoa, and in September and October it reveals one of its most discreet and authentic sides.

September and October have something special about them: the summer heat softens, the air becomes lighter, the days often remain bright, and the sea still holds the warmth it has gathered over the previous months. In fact, the water is very often more pleasant than it is in June, when the season has only just begun and the sea has not yet had time to warm up properly.

It is a different way of experiencing Liguria: slower, more authentic, more relaxed. The beaches are no longer as crowded as they are in August, while restaurants, bars, shops and beach facilities are still fully open, and everything seems to breathe at a different pace. Even those who have worked here throughout the summer finally seem to allow themselves a little pause, and this more relaxed atmosphere can be felt by those arriving from elsewhere as well.

Those who choose Chiavari in September or October are not simply looking for a seaside holiday, but for a small glimpse of Ligurian life: a swim during the warmest hours of the day, a walk along the seafront, a coffee in the town centre, the market, focaccia bought in the morning, an unhurried dinner, perhaps a trip to the villages inland, just as the colours begin to change.

You can stay in a spacious, comfortable and well-located home such as Le Saline, spending less while still enjoying much of what makes a summer holiday in Liguria so special.

The sea remains one of the main attractions, because the water temperature in Chiavari in

September is still typically summery, and even October can offer surprisingly pleasant days for those who enjoy swimming out of season, with a climate that remains mild.

Then there is real Ligurian autumn: not a melancholy one, but one made of lower light, hills changing colour, the scents of cooking and small local rituals.

It is the time of year when people begin to think about the olive harvest, which, depending on the year, may start between late September and October and continue into the first days of November. Those lucky enough to know someone local may occasionally be invited to take part in this exhausting yet fascinating activity: days spent among the olive trees, nets spread beneath the branches, tired hands, aching backs and, in the end, the satisfaction of new extra virgin olive oil left to settle.

In Liguria, the olive harvest is a family and cultural ritual, rather than something that makes much economic sense.

Those who help are “paid” in the best possible way: with a few bottles of extra virgin olive oil to take home.

The cuisine also changes pace in September, as autumn in Liguria brings mushrooms, chestnuts, pumpkin, new olive oil, local food festivals and deeper, more inland-inspired dishes.

It is the moment when sea and hillside truly meet: on one side, fish that is still wonderfully fresh; on the other, the produce of the woods and olive groves.

Anchovies, so important in Ligurian cuisine, are traditionally also fished using the lampara method from spring through to mid-October, so September remains an interesting month to find them fresh and enjoy them at just the right time.

At this time of year, Chiavari becomes a perfect base. From Le Saline, the sea, the town centre, the railway station, local shops and walks are all within easy reach. You can live the town without needing a car, while still being able to set off comfortably to discover the Tigullio area, the inland valleys, Sestri Levante, Camogli, Genoa or the small valleys just behind the coast.

September and October are months for those who appreciate things done well, without confusion; for those who still want the sea but do not enjoy the risk of crowds; for those looking for sunshine, but not oppressive heat; for those who want to feel on holiday — or rather, enjoying a proper seaside stay — while also feeling a little at home.

In short, in our view, September and October are not a fallback after summer, but rather a different, and in some ways better, way to experience Chiavari.

For Ligurians, these festivals are far more than an inexpensive evening meal. They are a deeply rooted tradition at the heart of local community life and represent one of the most important events of the year for the associations, parishes and sports clubs that organise them, almost always thanks to the work of dozens of volunteers.

The atmosphere has remained wonderfully traditional. Long communal tables, simple yet efficient service, freshly prepared food and deliberately affordable prices make these events the perfect place to spend a pleasant evening alongside both local residents and visitors. They are probably one of the most authentic ways of discovering the area, far more so than many events created purely for tourism.

Naturally, food is always the main attraction. Every festival offers a slightly different menu, but the common thread is Ligurian cuisine and the cooking traditions of the inland valleys: trofie and trenette with pesto, pansoti with walnut sauce, ravioli, lasagne, asado, grilled meats, roast pork, anchovies, focaccia, focaccia with cheese, savoury pies and traditional desserts. Many festivals celebrate seasonal produce or local agricultural specialities, including strawberries, watermelons, mushrooms, chestnuts, the famous fagiolane beans from Lavagna, tomatoes and many other delicacies that vary according to the season and the traditions of each individual village.

Entertainment is almost always part of the experience. Ballroom dance orchestras, live bands, dancing, performances, raffles and activities for children frequently accompany dinner, helping to create the warm, genuine and family-friendly atmosphere for which Ligurian festivals are so well known.

Among the region's best-known events is undoubtedly the Sagra del Bagnun in Riva Trigoso, one of the most famous food festivals in Liguria. Created to celebrate the traditional fishermen's soup made with anchovies, tomatoes and sailors' hard biscuits, it attracts thousands of visitors every year and has become one of the Riviera di Levante's most important gastronomic events.

Lavagna also offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the summer. Alongside the famous Torta dei Fieschi, a historical re-enactment that also celebrates local gastronomy, recent years have seen the growing success of Musica & Gusto, an event during which restaurants and cafés throughout the historic centre offer tastings, aperitifs and special menus accompanied by concerts and performances that bring the town's streets to life until late in the evening. The town also hosts numerous patron saint's festivals and celebrations in its surrounding hamlets, keeping the tradition of village food festivals very much alive.

Just a few kilometres inland, San Salvatore di Cogorno hosts one of the most atmospheric events of the Ligurian summer: L'Addio do Fantin, the spectacular medieval re-enactment of Count Opizzo Fieschi's bachelor farewell, featuring historical banquets, costumed performers, musicians, dancers and a truly unique atmosphere in the magnificent square in front of the Basilica dei Fieschi.

Those who enjoy the most traditional festivals will soon discover that the real paradise lies inland. The Fontanabuona Valley, only a few minutes from Chiavari, offers an exceptionally busy programme of events throughout the summer. Carasco, Leivi, San Colombano Certenoli, Cicagna, Coreglia Ligure, Orero, Favale di Malvaro and many other small villages organise festivals almost every weekend, celebrating local produce, traditional recipes and regional cuisine. One of the valley's most important events is Expò Fontanabuona, held in Calvari, which combines local food, regional products, crafts, exhibitions, music and entertainment, attracting visitors from across Liguria.

Chiavari itself, although better known for its cultural programme and the Patronal Celebrations of Madonna dell'Orto, also enjoys an exceptionally lively summer calendar. Concerts, exhibitions, markets, performances and outdoor events take place almost every week, while the surrounding villages invariably host a traditional food festival where visitors can enjoy a memorable evening.

This is precisely what makes the Tigullio's festivals so special. Rather than one single major event, the summer offers a continuous succession of celebrations, each with its own character and culinary speciality. Even during a stay of just one week, it is often possible to experience two or three completely different festivals, discovering a new village, a new recipe and a new tradition each time.

If you are staying at Le Saline, our advice is to check which events are taking place during your visit. There is usually no need to book in advance, and very often the finest festivals are not the most heavily advertised, but those organised in the small inland villages, where the cooking still follows grandmother's recipes and where the pleasure of sharing a meal together is just as important as the food itself.

Where to find the latest events calendar

As dates and programmes may vary from year to year, we recommend consulting the following websites, which are regularly updated with the latest events:

https://www.mentelocale.it/genova/argomenti/sagre/

https://www.iltigullio.com/sagre-tigullio/

https://paolin.altervista.org/appunta2.html

https://www.lavagnaturismo.it/novità-ed-eventi

https://www.comune.chiavari.ge.it/it/eventi

https://www.sagre.liguria.it/

https://www.itinerarinelgusto.it/sagre-e-feste/liguria/chiavari-ge

This makes it easy to find the nearest food festival, patron saint's celebration or gastronomic event during your stay and experience the Tigullio just as its residents have always done.

Visitors coming to Chiavari for the first time are often surprised by another distinctive characteristic of the Gulf of Tigullio: almost all of the town's beaches are covered with smooth pebbles shaped by the sea. Only at the eastern end of the town, close to the mouth of the River Entella, is there a stretch of sandy beach.

Which type of beach is preferable is largely a matter of personal taste. Pebble beaches require a little more care when walking barefoot, but they also offer several advantages: sand does not end up everywhere, towels stay much cleaner, shoes do not fill with grit and, in general, the sea remains clearer. Sandy beaches, on the other hand, are more pleasant for walking and are often preferred by families with young children, although sand inevitably follows you well beyond your time on the beach.

Another interesting feature of Chiavari's coastline concerns the way it has been protected from coastal erosion. For many decades, beginning shortly after the Second World War, the beaches were sheltered by offshore breakwaters arranged to create a series of semi-enclosed basins. The sea continued to circulate naturally, but the waves reached the shore in a much gentler form, creating particularly calm and sheltered bathing areas.

The result is a coastline with wider, more natural-looking beaches than in the past, although they are now more exposed to wave action during storms.

At the time of writing, some of the beaches on the western side of Chiavari—roughly between Piazza dei Pescatori and the former Villa Piaggio—still retain the original semi-enclosed basin layout. Under normal conditions, the sea here is exceptionally calm, giving these beaches the feel of a natural swimming pool.

One of the things many guests pleasantly discover during their stay in Chiavari is that eating well here is surprisingly easy.

Not because the town has become a tourist-oriented gastronomic destination, but almost for the opposite reason: Chiavari remains first and foremost a town lived in by its residents. As a result, many restaurants, pizzerias and food shops work every day for local customers who return regularly, know exactly what they want and expect quality.

This applies equally to restaurants, pizzerias, focaccia bakeries and the historic fainotti. Before recommending some of the places that we personally visit and suggest to our guests, it is worth making an important distinction that often escapes first-time visitors to Liguria.

When people talk about Ligurian focaccia, they often place everything under the same label, but in reality there are very different traditions.

Genoese focaccia bread is the one you buy from a bakery, take home, eat while strolling beneath the arcades or enjoy instead of bread with a meal (we even dip it into our cappuccino in the morning). It is a true Ligurian institution to which we have dedicated a separate article.

Cheese focaccia, on the other hand, is a completely different story. Originating in nearby Recco and now famous throughout the world, it consists of two extremely thin layers of unleavened dough filled with fresh cheese, traditionally stracchino. It is baked at very high temperature in large baking trays and the result is entirely different from traditional focaccia: light, crisp and irresistible.

Naturally, Chiavari has developed its own tradition of cheese focaccia over time, and several local establishments serve excellent versions.

Among the places we confidently recommend is Da Ivo, located in the historic centre, just a short walk from Piazza Mazzini.

In recent years this long-established restaurant has undergone a remarkable evolution thanks to the owner's son, who travelled to Naples to study authentic Neapolitan pizza before bringing that expertise back to Chiavari.

Today Da Ivo serves outstanding pizzas, excellent cheese focaccia and well-executed traditional cuisine. During the warmer months it is particularly enjoyable to dine at the outdoor tables set beneath the arcades of the carruggio, immersed in the atmosphere of the historic centre.

Another favourite of ours is M'aMa, located on the seafront along Corso Valparaiso. The atmosphere here is different: the menu is simpler and more informal, focusing mainly on pizzas, focaccias, salads and a handful of other dishes.

Yet this simplicity is one of the restaurant's greatest strengths, and over the years it has earned an excellent reputation for both its pizzas and its cheese focaccia.

Staying with pizza, in addition to Da Ivo and M'aMa, Farina 44 deserves special mention. Located in the heart of the historic centre, it offers a carefully designed setting with several outdoor tables in the carruggi.

Its pizzas are prepared with great attention to dough quality and ingredients, achieving an excellent balance between tradition and innovation.

Just a few minutes' walk from Le Saline you will find 30 Febbraio, a small pizzeria often discovered almost by chance by our guests and a very convenient option for an informal dinner without venturing far from the apartment.

Guests looking for a more refined dining experience will find several restaurants in Chiavari that are genuinely worth a visit.

Enoteca di Defilla is probably one of the town's most prestigious names. Created by a Master Sommelier, it offers refined cuisine that highlights local ingredients and recipes without unnecessary complications. The menu is never excessively long: just a carefully selected choice of dishes accompanied by a wine cellar that is regarded as a benchmark well beyond the local area.

Also highly recommended is Boccon Divino, an intimate and elegant restaurant that, during summer, offers several outdoor tables in a quiet courtyard opposite the premises.

Its cuisine is rooted in Ligurian tradition but interpreted with a contemporary touch. The wine list is not extensive, but it is thoughtfully curated and often includes unusual and particularly interesting bottles.

Another of our favourite addresses is Vino e Cucina, located in a side street off the Carruggio Dritto. Here wine is not merely an accompaniment but an integral part of the dining experience. The cellar is well constructed and the dishes maintain an authentic connection to local traditions without ever becoming predictable.

Just a short distance away is Il Glicine, particularly recommended for guests who enjoy seafood and shellfish. The ingredients take centre stage and the kitchen focuses on enhancing them without excessive elaboration, following a philosophy based on freshness and product quality.

For those who would like a break from Ligurian cuisine for an evening, we are also happy to recommend Taj Mahal, a well-loved Indian restaurant in the town centre.

The atmosphere is welcoming, the service attentive and the menu includes many of the great classics of Indian cuisine. It often surprises visitors who arrive expecting only seafood and Ligurian dishes, yet over the years it has built a remarkably loyal clientele.

Chiavari also preserves a strong tradition linked to farinata, one of the most iconic dishes of Ligurian cuisine.

Made from chickpea flour, water, extra virgin olive oil and salt, farinata is baked in large copper trays inside the wood-fired ovens of the traditional fainotti, establishments that are a true institution throughout Liguria.

Among Chiavari's historic addresses we particularly recommend Luchin, considered by many to be a symbol of the town itself; Da Vittorio, another historic name and often a second home for local residents; and Baciotto, which continues to keep this tradition alive by serving farinata and other classic Ligurian specialities.

However, if there is one piece of advice we truly like to give our guests, it is not to plan every meal in advance.

Chiavari is a town best experienced on foot. Very often the best restaurant is not the one discovered weeks earlier on the internet, but the one found almost by chance while walking beneath the arcades of the historic centre, stopping in front of an inviting window display or following the recommendation of a local resident.

You step inside, make a reservation for that evening or for another day, and then return.

Chiavari enjoys a privileged position in the heart of the Tigullio Gulf.

Situated exactly at the centre of the gulf, it lies just a few kilometres from Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo and the small, charming village of Zoagli. To the east, it is equally close to Lavagna, Cavi Borgo and Sestri Levante.

Its location is particularly appreciated by visitors wishing to explore the Ligurian Riviera without using a car. Thanks to the railway station, destinations such as Camogli and the Cinque Terre are easily reached by train, while regular boat services depart from the marina and nearby embarkation points for Portofino, San Fruttuoso and other beautiful locations along the coast.

Chiavari also represents a perfect strategic base for visiting Genoa, one of the world's most fascinating cities. The Ligurian capital can be reached easily both by car and by train, the latter being one of the most practical and efficient ways of travelling along the Riviera, especially during the summer season.

Unlike many tourist destinations along the Riviera, however, Chiavari is not a small village but a genuine town, lively and vibrant throughout the year.

This means enjoying all the services and conveniences of a modern town while retaining a human scale. The historic centre, seafront promenade, marina, beaches, shops and principal attractions can all be reached comfortably on foot within a matter of minutes.

One of the elements that makes Chiavari truly unique is its extraordinary historic centre. The characteristic arcaded carruggi are an architectural feature found nowhere else but Chiavari.

Thanks to their east-west orientation, they remain pleasantly cool during the summer months and provide excellent shelter during colder and rainy winter days. Beneath these arcades lies the true heart of the town, animated by historic shops, cafés, restaurants and businesses that keep the centre alive throughout the year.

Just a few steps separate the historic centre from Chiavari's magnificent seafront promenade. This long promenade is itself unique because, being elevated above sea level, it allows uninterrupted views of the sea even during the bathing season, when beach establishments and bathing cabins occupy the shoreline below.

The promenade stretches for several kilometres through pedestrian areas, gardens, cafés and restaurants, creating an ideal environment for walking, jogging or simply relaxing while looking out over the sea.

Along the promenade visitors encounter the Marina of Chiavari, one of the most important marinas on the Riviera di Levante. In addition to providing an excellent harbour for yachts and pleasure craft, it hosts numerous restaurants, cafés and businesses.

From here, boat services depart for some of Liguria's most beautiful destinations, while boat rental services are also available for day excursions along the coast.

Continuing along the waterfront, visitors reach the charming Piazzetta dei Pescatori (Fishermen's Square), one of the town's most characteristic corners, and subsequently the area surrounding Torre Fara, recently restored and returned to the community as an elegant landmark overlooking the Tigullio Gulf.

Chiavari also offers both private beach clubs and public beaches, allowing everyone to enjoy the sea in the way they prefer.

The town is equally rich in cultural and entertainment opportunities.

The San Francesco Auditorium regularly hosts events, performances and cultural initiatives.

For those seeking a peaceful moment surrounded by greenery, Villa Rocca Park represents a true oasis in the heart of the town. Its mature trees and shaded pathways provide a welcome refuge during the warmest days of the year.

Finally, Chiavari preserves an extraordinary gastronomic tradition made up of restaurants, trattorias, pastry shops, cafés and historic establishments that contribute significantly to the town's character and charm. It is a heritage worthy of its own dedicated exploration, and one that we will discuss in future articles.

It is precisely this balance between sea, history, services, culture and quality of life that makes Chiavari such a special destination, capable of captivating both those who spend a single weekend here and those who choose to return year after year.

One of the reasons for choosing Chiavari as a holiday destination is its truly strategic location. The town sits at the geographical centre of the Tigullio Gulf, allowing visitors to reach some of the most beautiful places in Liguria without lengthy journeys.

On one side lie Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino and Zoagli; on the other, Cavi Borgo (a district of Lavagna) and Sestri Levante; a little further beyond are the Cinque Terre.

All this comes with the advantage of staying in a real town, complete with shops, services, beaches, a marina, restaurants and year-round local life, without being immersed in the crowds that characterise many of the Riviera's most popular destinations during the height of the tourist season.

The first piece of advice we always give our guests is to forget about the car during the summer months. Travelling by train is simply easier, more relaxing and often much faster.

Chiavari railway station is only a few minutes' walk from our apartment, and Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure and even the spectacular Camogli can be reached in a matter of minutes.

Rapallo is certainly worth visiting for a stroll along its seafront promenade, a wander through the historic centre and a visit to its distinctive seaside castle. Santa Margherita Ligure, meanwhile, still retains the elegance that has long distinguished the great resorts of the Riviera di Levante, with its historic villas, gardens, boutiques and beautiful harbour.

Portofino does not have its own railway station, but it is easily reached by taking the train to Santa Margherita and then using the frequent local buses that connect the two towns. Once there, it is well worth strolling around the harbour, climbing to the Church of San Giorgio for magnificent views across the gulf, or visiting Castello Brown, surrounded by greenery above the promontory.

A brisk twenty-minute walk leads to the lighthouse, where visitors can enjoy breathtaking views over the Portofino Marine Protected Area. During the summer months there is also a wonderful little bar where you can stop for a drink while admiring the scenery.

A particularly pleasant alternative is to reach Portofino by sea. During the summer season, tourist boats depart daily from Chiavari's marina and connect several destinations around the Tigullio Gulf.

The same service also reaches San Fruttuoso, one of the Riviera's most extraordinary hidden gems. The ancient abbey stands in a small cove protected by the Portofino Promontory and can only be reached by boat or via several hours of hiking trails. For many visitors, it becomes one of the highlights of their entire holiday.

Camogli, located west of the Portofino Promontory, is another destination not to be missed. This beautiful fishing village grew around a natural harbour sheltered by what was once a separate island, now incorporated into the town itself.

Everything in Camogli deserves to be explored, but be sure to allow time to enjoy its magnificent seafront, lined with cafés, restaurants and small independent shops.

The case for avoiding the car is even stronger when it comes to the Cinque Terre.

The Cinque Terre form part of a National Park, where parking is extremely limited. As a result, the train is undoubtedly the best way to visit the area.

Several trains pass through Chiavari every day, but it is often even more convenient to travel first to nearby Sestri Levante and then use one of the many services departing from there towards Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.

The Cinque Terre are not simply five beautiful villages overlooking the sea. A fundamental part of the experience is exploring the network of footpaths that cross the landscape through terraced vineyards, ancient dry-stone walls and spectacular viewpoints that have become famous throughout the world.

As routes, opening times, access regulations and fees can change throughout the year, we always recommend consulting the official website of the Cinque Terre National Park before your visit:

https://www.parconazionale5terre.it/

Among all the destinations that can be reached from Chiavari, one of our personal favourites remains Sestri Levante.

Many visitors know it only for the famous Bay of Silence, but the town offers far more than that. The historic centre is compact, elegant and delightful to explore on foot. Its carruggio is filled with shops, cafés and picturesque corners, while the Bay of Silence is probably one of the most photographed locations in the whole of Liguria. It regularly appears in advertising campaigns, films and international photo shoots.

On the opposite side of the peninsula lies the Bay of Fairy Tales, dedicated to Hans Christian Andersen, who stayed in the town. The seafront promenade offers beautiful views, especially in the evening, and is one of the most enjoyable places to stop for an aperitif while watching the sunset.

All of this, and much more, can be discovered while using Chiavari as your base. The town offers the opportunity to experience an authentic Ligurian community, with its market, arcaded streets, beaches and restaurants, while at the same time serving as the ideal starting point for exploring some of the finest destinations on the Riviera di Levante.

If you only have two days to visit Chiavari, the advice we would give is not to rush.

Chiavari is not a town to be ticked off a list of places to see, but a place to be enjoyed by walking, stopping, observing the details and simply living its spaces.

This was no accident. In the event of pirate ships being sighted, fishermen and farmers working in the surrounding fields had enough time to retreat inside the fortified town, itself protected  by a castle whose ruins can still be admired today.

At the same time, however, Chiavari has never been solely a seaside town. It developed in the only significant flat area between Genoa and La Spezia and consequently became, for centuries, the “town of the gardens”, supplying fruit and vegetables to the Republic of Genoa.

This agricultural heritage has left a profound mark on both the landscape and the character of the town.

On one side lie the seafront, beaches, marina, Fishermen's Square, the former shipyard areas and the old fishermen's houses; on the other, the historic centre with its carruggi, churches, villas, gardens and Villa Rocca Park.

At any time of year you will find a lively and vibrant atmosphere. Unlike many destinations that depend almost entirely on tourism, Chiavari is a genuine town, inhabited and active throughout the year. Every day the centre fills with people shopping, strolling, meeting friends in cafés, working or simply enjoying the atmosphere beneath the arcades.

With only two days available, the first can easily be devoted to discovering the historic centre.

Start with the Carruggio Dritto (today Via Martiri della Liberazione), the commercial heart of the town for centuries. Along its length you will encounter elegant historic buildings, shops of every kind, cafés and picturesque corners that tell a story stretching back hundreds of years.

The medieval arcades of the carruggi are unique in the world. On sunny days they provide welcome shade; during rainy periods they allow visitors to stroll in comfort under cover, making the centre enjoyable in every season.

Outside the carruggi and on the surrounding hillsides, you will notice numerous villas with towers, one of the most distinctive features of Chiavari's landscape.

These residences belonged to families who had made their fortunes in South America. Many were descendants of large landowners who managed vast agricultural estates, where towers served as practical tools for overseeing the surrounding land.

When they returned to Chiavari, they chose to leave a visible symbol of their success by building these villas. The height of the tower reflected the scale of the landholdings: the taller the tower, the larger the estate that had once been under its control.

They can be seen throughout the area surrounding the historic centre — including near our Le Saline Apartment — and form one of the elements that make Chiavari immediately recognisable.

After lunch, it is worth heading towards the sea.

Chiavari's promenade is spacious, elegant and enjoyable in every season. Naturally, it becomes more animated during summer thanks to the beach clubs and seaside life, but in autumn, winter and spring it remains one of the town's most attractive places for a relaxing walk.

Continuing along the waterfront brings you to the marina, now one of the liveliest parts of Chiavari, with numerous cafés, restaurants and businesses overlooking the harbour.

In the evening, our first recommendation is to return to the historic centre.

This applies in virtually every season: the illuminated arcades, outdoor tables, glowing shop windows and evening strolls create one of the most authentic images of the town.

During summer, however, the seafront and marina become an equally attractive alternative. They remain lively until late in the evening, with restaurants, bars and cafés offering outdoor seating made particularly pleasant by the sea breeze.

At that time of year, the choice largely depends on the atmosphere you are looking for: the seafront is generally livelier, busier and more energetic, while the historic centre retains a quieter and more relaxed character.

But Chiavari is also a town of hills, crossed by footpaths and ancient roads leading to surprisingly beautiful viewpoints.

One of the most popular walks climbs to the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Grazie, which overlooks the gulf and offers magnificent views across both the town and the sea.

Another option is to explore the trails that cross the hills behind Chiavari, winding through olive groves, small villages and traditional Ligurian terraces. Even a simple one-hour walk reveals a completely different side of the area.

Those interested in art and religious history will also find Chiavari surprisingly rich in heritage, as it is the seat of a bishopric.

This has left the town with an important collection of churches and religious buildings. The Cathedral of Nostra Signora dell'Orto is undoubtedly the principal landmark, but many other historic churches can be found throughout the centre, each helping to tell the story of Chiavari's role over the centuries as the administrative and religious heart of the Tigullio area.

If time allows before your departure, it is worth enjoying one final stroll either along the seafront or through Villa Rocca Park, one of the most beautiful public gardens in the region.

We also recommend enjoying an aperitif overlooking the sea in Fishermen's Square, one of the best ways to say goodbye to Chiavari and understand why so many people who arrive for a simple weekend end up returning again and again.

Chiavari is an authentic Italian town. It has never been transformed into a destination built around tourism, and that is undoubtedly one of the main reasons why visitors who discover it fall in love with it.

For us Ligurians, and especially for those of us from the eastern part of Liguria, focaccia bread is not simply a baked product. It is an ancient tradition, deeply woven into our history and our daily habits. It is something that has accompanied everyday life for generations and continues to do so today.

Visitors are often surprised to discover that focaccia bread is not eaten only as a snack or during meals. For many of us it is also a traditional breakfast, enjoyed in a café and dipped into a cappuccino.

For us, focaccia bread is a tradition and a serious matter, which is precisely why it is impossible to determine once and for all which bakery produces the best one. Every bakery has its own interpretation, its own history and its own loyal customers.

But there is more to it than that. The very same focaccia bread can vary slightly from one day to the next, from one season to another and, according to some bakers, even depending on humidity levels and weather conditions.

Furthermore, not all focaccia breads are at their best at the same moment. Some are irresistible straight from the oven, while still warm and fragrant; others develop more character after a few hours; others again can be surprisingly enjoyable the following day, perhaps lightly reheated.

For this reason, the advice we give to guests staying at Le Saline is simple: during your stay, take the time to try as many focaccia breads as possible and decide for yourself which one is your favourite.

This may seem like a minor detail, but it is not. In Liguria, focaccia bread can be made either with or without lard, and this choice plays an important role in determining its texture, fragrance and flavour.

Its focaccia bread has built up an extremely loyal following over the years. It is one of those bakeries that is frequently mentioned whenever the traditional debate begins about which focaccia bread is the best in town.

In addition to producing excellent focaccia bread, it offers something that many visitors particularly appreciate: it is often open on Sundays and public holidays. For anyone who enjoys starting the day with a warm piece of focaccia bread while strolling beneath the arcades of the old town, it is a very pleasant stop.

The company originated in Recco, the home of the famous cheese focaccia, and has become one of the region's best-known bakery brands. The Chiavari shop also produces highly regarded traditional focaccia bread and represents a reliable choice for anyone wishing to discover one of Liguria's most important baking traditions.

Naturally this is a completely personal opinion and one that is bound to spark debate, as every opinion about focaccia bread does in Liguria. Nevertheless, for our taste, this bakery achieves a particularly successful balance of crispness, softness, saltiness and the aroma of the dough.

It is the focaccia bread that most frequently finds its way onto our table, and it is made without lard.

Generations of local people have grown up knowing this bakery, and it remains an important presence in the life of the town. Its focaccia bread is certainly worth trying, just as the bakery itself is worth visiting for anyone interested in discovering one of the businesses most deeply rooted in local tradition.

Recently it became part of the Tossini group, yet it has retained its own identity and continues to maintain distinctive characteristics. For this reason it remains one of the bakeries most appreciated by many residents of Chiavari.

Our Final Recommendation: a holiday in Chiavari offers countless opportunities to discover the area, the sea, the historic carruggi and the Gulf of Tigullio. It also offers the chance to embark on a small personal quest: finding your own favourite focaccia bread.

And if your choice happens to be different from ours, do not worry: that is exactly how focaccia bread works in Liguria.